Anker521 Portable Power Station Upgraded with LiFePO4 Battery, 256Wh 6-Port PowerHouse, 300W (Peak 600W) Solar Generator (Solar Panel Optional), 2 AC Outlets, 60W USB-C PD Output, Outdoor GeneratorClimatePartner certified

Really easy to use and it comes with a 5-year warranty, which is a great bonus. The overall quality is solid—it feels durable and looks really sleek. The light is surprisingly bright, and I love that it includes an energy saver button. The solar kit is a bit pricey, so we’ll have to save up for that part, but it’s definitely worth considering down the line. Overall, a great product and I’d highly recommend it!

I only need 5% to fully charge my iPhone 16 pro max. I love this product.

I was very impressed with the product. I paired this with a 100W solar panel and was able to run a JBL Partybox 110 at full blast all day at the beach and the Power station remained at 99-100% all day. It is very high quality and I would definitely recommend.

Initial Review:I have been looking for a smaller "solar generator" that will be used daily to transfer solar power from my big, fixed, LFP battery - the later sits in my basement connected to panels on the side of my house.Key features needed were easy to carry, relatively fast charging, pass-through charging, PD output - plus the standard AC, 12V, and USB outputs. The Anker fit all of these plus the LFP battery is an advantage for a unit that will get cycled many times a week.I've had it for a week now, and it does basically do what I want, but it has limitations. The biggest is the lack of a real "off" mode: if I fully charge it and leave it in economy mode with all ports off it still uses 1 to 2% per day. My EcoFlow units and Jackery units have a true off and drop by less than that in a week. For that alone it drops 2 stars.More minor concerns:1. Max AC ouput is only 200W, so I can't run anything needing more than that. Many units, even with the relatively small battery in this unit, can put out more than that.2. The max power input is about 65W (by solar, AC, or PD); yes, I can get around that by combining solar/AC with PD input, but I wish I could use higher solar input so I could get full advantage from at least a 100W panel.Note that when looking at the solar input side I couldn't find anything about the max input voltage - while you can use a panel providing more current than the max input (it will only take what it can use) excess voltage can fry a unit. I looked in the manual and on the Web site and couldn't find anything. I sent an email to support, asking for the max VOC allowed, and their response was I could use a "any (12V-28V) solar charger with DC 7909 Male connector" - not a great response as a solar charger typically has a controller, which would conflict with the one in the unit, and there are lots of MC4 to DC7909 adapters available (and no mention that the voltage that matters is the VOC). Still, it means I can use my "12V" panels that have VOCs from 18V to 25V (a have a few panels) without problem.So, for my purpose the unit is fine for what I paid ($209) but others may be better for your needs.Final note: many focus on the 3000 cycles of the LFP over the 500+ cycles of a typical NMC unit, but for most this is irrelevant. Few will go through a charge cycle more than twice a week, which means 104 cycles a year or 5+ years to reach that 500 cycles, and even then, the battery doesn't die at 500 cycles, it just drops to 80% of the original capacity. Don't buy one just because it has LFP unless you charge through a cycle more than twice a week.Update: I tried to charge it by solar for the first time today. I tried two different panels, both of which work with my Jackery 240, and neither worked with this unit. In one case, the jack that was tight in the Jacker wobbled in the Anker, so it may be a connector issue with both. I've contacted tech support.I also saw some odd behavior with AC output yesterday: I tried to top up my EcoFlow unit from 75% to 80% for storage, plugging it in to the Anker. The EcoFlow was set to slow charge mode, so it should have pulled well under 200W, yet it just sat there clicking, unable to pull enough power to start. I was able to charge it with the 12V outlet from the Anker, but need to test the AC output more; maybe the EcoFlow pulled more than expected to start charging by AC.Update 5/21. I can't charge this with solar. Tech support said I need a 7909 connector, not the 8mm one which is pretty standard - and they don't sell a cable for solar charging or have one to recommend. I bought an 8mm to 7909 adapter and tried that today: doesn't fit. So, the Anker is going back.So much potential here, from a company that is normally great, but this one product is flawed.Update 5/30. After a lot of communication with Anker tech support, they provided one of their solar panels to try. It is a nice panel and works well with their unit and with my EcoFlow unit. I think that the solar charging issue I have comes down to an oddity with the connector, and if you have the right adapter the unit charges well with solar (within the limits of the 65W max input). Their panel comes with the adapter, and I assume that such adapters will be more readily available soon.So, if you don't need solar charging or either buy their panel or find the right adapter, it is a good unit. Not perfect because of the 65W solar limit and 200W max output, but pretty good, and it comes with great tech support. So my, my review goes up to 4 stars.Update Sept 19, 2022: The unit has been in use daily, primarily to top up my phone, tablet, and similar things, plus to top up tool batteries by DC or AC output. Working fine. I did some capacity tests with a 70W bulb and was pleased to see that it has a pretty efficient AC inverter, with low power loss. Another positive: with the right adapter cable, I can reliably charge this at 65W by solar, in addition to DC and AC.But a big negative: the display cannot track low power/USB usage. If all I do is use it for topping up phones and tablets by USB all week, it will stay at 99% and then switch off at zero. I don't see the same with problem with AC usage. (Recalibrating by a full charge, drain until power off, and a full charge, makes no difference.) Not a huge issue for me: when it dies unexpectedly from USB use I'll just use another battery unit while this one is being charged, but it is a problem.

I bought this as an auxiliary power source for use in a vehicle--I need to carry a 12 volt refrigerator with me (special dietary needs, road food, etc.), and occasionally charge up Milwaukee tool or DSLR batteries even if the vehicle is not running.The packaging of the 521 is ideal, although I wish the two 120V outlets had "real" 3-prong outlets. The size is perfect when a vehicle is loaded up--it uses little space.I ran two tests with the refrigerator connected to the 12 volt outlet. The refrigerator operates in both ECO and MAX modes. The ECO mode draws 30-35 watts while operating, while the MAX runs at anywhere from 40-50 watts. I ran the refrigerator indoors somewhat near a heat outlet, to simulate being inside a warm vehicle. The refrigerator is rated to deliver 256Wh of power, so I calculated that worst case would be the refrigerator running constantly for 5.5 hours. Turns out that with the refrigerator cycling on and off, it ran over 20 hours before the battery was down to about 2-4% capacity.EDIT: I had a charging issue that was partly my own misunderstanding and partly my car's wiring. I was at first unsuccessful in getting the 521 to charge from both inputs.First, I had to use a USB-C PD charger, which provides higher voltages than standard USB chargers. This allowed a full 65 watts on the USB-C input for charging. But I would add the 120 volt charger that came with the 521 in tandem with the USB-C charger wasn't getting the ~120 watts of charging. I later realized that for battery health, the 120 watt charging through both DC inputs only happens when the battery's state of charge is lower. If it's nearly fully charged, it cuts back to only a single DC input.Yet, I still could not get both to work in the car. I have a 150 watt 120-volt inverter in the car, which plugs into a rear accessory outlet using a lighter plug. It turns out that if I have both the 521's 120 volt charger and a USB-C PD charger plugged into the inverter, the inverter stops working. Likewise, if I use a separate USB-C charger that plugs into the accessory outlet (I have a 1:3 adapter with a voltage readout), the inverter cuts out. It seems the inverter is cutting out when voltage drops below a nominal value like 12.8 volts. In essence, the wiring from the fuse box to the accessory outlet cannot provide full wattage without voltage sag. When I plug the USB-C PD adapter into an accessory outlet in the center console (which is on its own 15 amp circuit), I can get 120 watts of charging to the 521.I will wire up my own circuit with 6-gauge wire to run a 300 or 400 watt inverter and a pair of accessory outlets, as this will eliminate the voltage drop.With ~120 watts, this provides a quicker recovery for the battery while the refrigerator is operating, which is exactly what I needed.

It came with AC adapters only overall good enough for my device I'm using little things that keep me charging my cell phone and USB fans for week good for emergency or camping